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THE COLLAR   THE BUTTONS
A simple collar with a notched lapel is classy but unstuffy. A contrasting fabric collar is best for formal occasions and evening wear.   Three buttons are the cleanest, most classic fastening arrangement. Four buttons create a higher – i.e., slightly more formal – gorge. A button-concealing placket is recommended for a sleeker, more minimalist look.
     
THE SHOULDER   THE FIT
Not too wide, and go easy on the padding or you'll sprout superhero shoulders when you put the coat on over a suit. The overall effect should be crisp but natural.   The modern topcoat has a trim, close-to-the body silhouette. It should be the same size as your suit and not a size larger (always try it on over a tailored jacket). The sleeves of your jacket or shirt should never protrude beyond those of the coat.
     
THE FABRIC   THE LENGTH
Cashmere- it is light but warm enough for all but the most brutal weather. Camel hair is a snappier, less conventional – but still businesslike – alternative to classic dark cashmere.   Keep it short – knee-length or just above – but not so brief that you start to look top-heavy. Below the knee is more traditional.
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